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Manic birdsong roused us and I pulled back the shutters to reveal the hotel’s swimming pool sitting picturesquely in the lush gardens. In the gleaming black and white bathroom we found a similar blend of monochrome luxury and simplicity.Įven if our beds were of that silly Siamese-twin configuration (locked together but made up separately), it wasn’t the end of the world, as they were extremely comfortable and welcoming, and we couldn’t have had a more delightful awakening in the morning. There were two parallel white sofas in the little sitting room, and a dark-velvet chaise longue for stretching out and reading and chatting on, side by side.

But any concealed nuns were sybarites, too: black satin slippers lay next to our bed in special boxes, and a silver bowl of berries from the château’s organic garden was waiting for us.

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It was decorated in a style I am christening ‘convent de luxe’: dark wood, antiques, lots of white upholstery, crisp snowy linens and huge windows everywhere. After checking in, without actually having to get up from our table, we were shown to our suite. The 17th-century château was breathtaking in the crescent moonlight. The air, which was scented with the lavender and thyme that border the courtyard, further aided our relaxation. (These included specialities of the Dordogne region: we pounced on foie gras, tomato tartlets and some deliciously crisp radishes and endive.) Within seconds, the cares of the day, the plane delays and the car-hire queue were distant memories. ‘Hang on – we haven’t even checked in yet,’ he pointed out, as we sat down in a pair of white-upholstered Philippe Starck chairs and were immediately brought welcoming glasses of champagne and a plate of canapés. A long table of late diners were finishing off their puddings underneath the stars. We’re definitely coming back,’ I said to Mr Smith as we parked the hire car and walked, just after midnight, into the white, pebbled, candlelit courtyard of Château les Merles. Driving to Bordeaux will take an hour and 45 minutes the natural park of Landes de Gascogne is two hours away and Toulouse is just over three hours. Car hire is available from Bergerac train station and all regional airports. The hotel is close to the N21, which runs through Bergerac, and between the A20 and A62. South-westerly Tuilières is 600km from Paris travel on autoroutes via Orléans (A10), the A71, A20 towards Limoges, then the N21 to Bergerac. From Paris, connect at Bordeaux from Lyon and the east, change at Libourne (AutomobilesĪ car offers the best way to explore this rural riverine region. The Bordeaux-Sarlat train line stops at Bergerac, a 20-minute drive from Château les Merles. Bordeaux airport (has a greater choice of international routes, as well as French connections, and is within a two-hour drive of the hotel.

The nearest airport is Bergerac (a 15-minute drive away, served by several budget carriers. Tuilières, on the banks of the Dordogne, is in rural surroundings near Mouleydier, east of Bergerac. Apartments and villas, with their extra space, microwaves and fridges, are best for families. Baby cots and extra beds (for under-16s) are €20 a night, otherwise €40 a night. Pre-booked day-care facilities are available. See more pet-friendly hotels in Dordogne. Furry friends are allowed in all public areas of the hotel, including the restaurant, but a lead must be used on the golf course. Pet‐friendlyĭogs and cats are welcome in Double Deluxe rooms for €20 a night. Golfing gear and chic staples for dinner in the grand dining room. Please note that, in accordance with French law, children in pools must be supervised at all times.

Set on the front-lawn amongst beautifully-blooming flowers and sweet-smelling lavender shrubs, the outdoor pool (unheated) and sunbathing patio with sleek black parasols are open daily from 9am to 8pm. Suite 8 has high ceilings, classical styling and views over the swimming pool and golf course. Suite 7 is spacious and has a fine view over the Dordogne valley.

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In rooms: flatscreen TV with DVD player, safe, free bottled water and tea- and coffee-making facilities. Tennis court, nine-hole golf course, playground, gardens, DVD library, free WiFi throughout.

Map of dordogne and gascony